You need to be wearing your sensible head when buying second-hand. The bike must be checked over very carefully. Take a mate with you. He may spot something you miss.
Basic things to check are:
Frame straight? Look at the bike from the back. The front and back wheels should be perfectly level. A board or failing that, the white lines in the road make for a useful ruler. Also check for any signs of cracks or re-welding.
Suspension working? Get on the bike and bounce up and down. There should be a slight delay before the bike returns to its normal position. If it springs straight up (or even worse) stays down, get off and walk away.
Chain and sprockets in decent condition? Check out the teeth of the rear sprocket. If they are smooth and even, fine. It the teeth are worn, it will need replacing. How much life is left in the chain? Look at the adjuster nuts. If they are right up to the frame, then the chain is on its last legs. Remember, chain and sprockets should be replaced as a package.
Handlebars and front wheel straight? Check to see if anything is loose. Get the front wheel between your legs and try to twist the bars whilst holding on tight. The wheel should be held rigid. If not, the head bearings are probably buggered.
Scuffs or scratches? Usually a good sign of crash damage. If there are scratches, take a look at the bar grips and end weights. If they are scraped and scuffed, then the bike has been on the floor. Bent levers and damaged footpegs also give the game away.
Bike start first time? Insist on starting the bike up from cold. Warming the engine up first is an old trick. Once warm, it will spark into life first time and any nasty knocking noises will have calmed down. Cold starting is also the best way of making sure the bushes are not knackered. When running, listen to the engine. Take a screwdriver with you. This can be used as a stethoscope by putting the metal end against the engine and pushing your ear against the handle. Any odd knocks or rattling probably mean it is about give up the ghost or even worse, the big end is about to blow.
Signs of rust? Serious? Will things need replacing, and soon?
How much tread left on the tyres? Any damage to the tyre walls? Evidence of patching?
Look at anything and everything. Lights, battery, filters, everything. A decent check of a bike should take ten minutes. Time yourself if need be. If the bike is fine, then there should be no objections to you taking your time.
Any service history? Ask to look at receipts. No service history means that either the bloke has been doing his own servicing, or it has never had one. See if they have an owner’s manual. If so, get a look at it. Any pages covered in oil and grease are the ones are the ones he read when something went wrong!
Once you have checked the bike over, check out the paperwork. Are the original log book (V5) and MOT certificate available? Do not accept a copy. Do the details match the bike? Is the colour right? Do the frame numbers match? Any evidence of the numbers having been filed away or altered? If the slightest thing does not seem kosher, then forget it, you are probably looking at a stolen bike.
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